Cory Wong’s latest project is ostensibly Vulfpeck’s sixth album, and it’s perhaps telling that the band have avoided official recognition for their efforts – Wong’s Cafe feels rushed and uninspired from start to finish, and is home to some of the most unremarkable songs in the band’s history.

Approaching the end of my first listen of Wong’s Cafe, I couldn’t help but feel baffled. Why does this album even exist? Wong is now somewhat notorious in funk guitar circles for his relentless, somewhat overwhelming creative output. 2021 may have only brought a miserly four albums from Wong (2020 had twice that many), but to be fair he’s been busy pumping out online guitar courses, presenting his own talk show and larking about on an ice rink with his band. On paper, Wong’s Cafe is just yet more output from the Vulfpeck guitarist, and the album does indeed have a good deal of Wong’s ultra-clean rhythm guitar idiosyncrasies that helped him gain a name for himself as a solo artist during Vulfpeck’s recent hiatus.
Look just a little closer, however, and Wong’s Cafe has the fingerprints of Vulfpeck creative mastermind Jack Stratton all over it. All the beloved characters are back in action: Joe Dart’s neck is as flexible as ever, bobbing to the tune of some typically outstanding bass lines; Stratton is still plonking a piano and excitedly directing each tune; Theo Katzman spends the album cowering over a minimalist drum kit; enigmatic Woody Goss is as humble as ever with his jazzy keys embellishments. Joey Dosik even pops up at one point, contributing with his signature sax rasp. I felt almost emotional when the first studio clips of lead single Disco De Lune were released; it’s been too long since I’ve seen my favourite band jam together like that.
With such esteemed company, it’s strange how so often on Wong’s Cafe it’s clearly not Wong leading the show but Stratton and the rest of the band. Stratton-penned You Got to Be You, for example, sees Wong as nothing more than filler behind a passable, if rather derivate piano hook. It’s been confirmed that Antwaun Stanley had recorded vocals for the entirety of this track, but his input was scrapped when the band decided to keep Wong’s Cafe wholly instrumental. It’s a tragic loss – without any vocals, verses feel empty and directionless, and that piano riff lacks the Parcels shine that might have helped it get past the first chorus before growing dull and repetitive. The groove is so run-of-the-mill for Vulfpeck, even Joey Dosik’s best efforts in a closing saxophone solo can’t save it. The following Let’s Go! is a similar story, and ironically sees Stratton play the lead guitar riff in Wong’s place. Cheesy disco strings and a plodding drum beat would have been a little less nauseating had it not all sounded like a blatant rip off the 1983 classic Jump (For My Love). Goss is plonked somewhat uncomfortably on a cliché retro synthesiser, and his solo lacks the assured jazz improvisation skills so often demonstrated when Goss is on his home territory of Wurlitzers and good, old-fashioned upright pianos.
Smokeshow and Sweet Potato Pie deserve some praise for experimenting beyond the retro funk and disco genres the band have churned out for over a decade now, but neither track offers much appeal beyond a first intriguing listen. Smokeshow is an attempt at sexy, catwalk-ready 90s house music, but the bumbling groove behind Eddie Barbash’s breathy saxophone seems to run out of ideas halfway through. Sweet Potato Pie is bizarre bluegrass jazz that might have been bareable had Wong’s acoustic guitar hook not been so unoriginal and bland. A series of rapidfire solos are competently performed, but the return of that nauseating original melody does well to snuff out any building momentum.
There are more oddities later on in a tracklist that has a habit to fly by unnoticed. Vulfpeck’s brilliant Radio Shack (released to great acclaim less than two years ago) gets a needless redo, this time minus all the authentic charm of the cheery original. Over-production and a few unnecessary instrumental additions bog down the track a little, but the truth is Radio Shack (Wong’s Cafe Version) is remarkably similar to the original and as a result feels completely redundant. Any new song would have been much preferable to this, in spite of the fact that the original Radio Shack is one of Vulfpeck’s best songs in recent years.
The times when Wong does take full control of things happen to be when Wong’s Cafe is at its most unremarkable. Guitar musings like Memories and the throwaway closer Kitchen Etude leave no impact on the listener at all, barely passing as background music. Then there’s Guitar Music, a 70 second loop of one guitar chord that marks the nadir of Wong’s career to date. A song uniquely devoid of any ideas whatsoever, quite how fluff like this managed to make it onto an official album by a professional musician like Wong is beyond me. He should have tried much harder, or better, not released the song at all.
For all its failings, Wong’s Cafe is not completely lacking in redeeming qualities. Disco De Lune is the album’s most promising moment, with a fresh and genuinely original take on Debussy’s famous dreamy piano harmonies. The outro builds up a good head of steam, giving Dart a chance to flex his still-extraordinary bass guitar muscles. It’s a shame that all the seven tracks that follow lack Disco De Lune‘s albeit modest confidence and flair.
Whilst it’s technically only a Cory Wong album, Wong’s Cafe is an unfortunate return for the Vulfpeck lads. The heady heights of the band’s unbelievable, seminal live album seem like a long time ago now. Try as Stratton and Wong might, the magic is fading. A distinct change of direction and some fresh ideas is essential for the next album; half-baked songs like these just won’t cut it.